Lucyravenscar Crochet Creatures

www.lucyravenscar.etsy.com

Pattern for a slightly fierce but friendly really Dragon.
heavens_hellcat
*I've now written this pattern out in a more standard way, and changed a few minor things. In particular I've made the wings stronger so they will stick out better. The new version is too long to post here, but you can download the pattern from Ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fierce-little-dragon

You can also see photos of the new Fierce Little Dragon at my Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/96575205@N00/5737701916/

Of course, you can still follow the pattern below if you find that easier, but do check out the new wings, you may prefer them.

Edited May 2011*

I'm going to assume that anyone who tries to make this has a reasonable knowledge of crochet & making amigurumi, and that you know how to increase and decrease. So I am just going to write the number of stitches in each round and then explain any fiddly bits in more detail. Semi-colons (;) separate the rounds, assume you start with chain 2 & crochet into the first stitch, or with a magic ring.

Use a 3.5mm (E) hook.
Use any yarn you like, you may need to increase the hook size if you use a very chunky yarn. Crochet tightly so that the stuffing won’t show.
Mark the start of each row.
Stuff the body as you go along, not too tightly so that the dragon can bend its neck and tail.

Abbreviations:
inc 2 = do 2 sc in one stitch.
dec 2 = reduce 2 stitches down to one sc.
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
FO = finish off
st = stitch(es)
ch = chain
yoh = yarn over hook
ss = slip stitch (US), single crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

Start at the dragon’s nose:

Nostrils:
8 sc in ring, FO leaving a bit of a tail.
8 sc in ring, then sc into any stitch on the first ring and go all the way around both of them, ending up with 16 st. Use the tail to sew up any gap between the 2 parts.

Continue:
16; (do the following reductions at the middle top and middle bottom of the nose) 14; 14; 12; 10; (do the next 4 increases at the top to create the head) 14; 14; 14; (do the following decreases at the top) 12; 10; 8; 8; 8; (increase by one stitch anywhere) 9; 10; 10; 10; 11; 12; (do the next increase at the bottom to create the body) 18; 18; (increase every 3rd stitch) 24; 24; 24; (do the following increases at sides) 26; 26; 26; 28; 28; (do the following reductions at the sides, but a bit randomly, or there will be a distinct line) 26; 24; 22; 20; 18; 16; 14; 14; 12 x 11 rounds; 11; 11; 11; 10; 10; 10; 9; 9; 9; 8; 8; 8; 8; 7 x 10 rounds; 6; [If the tail doesn’t look pointy enough, continue for 3 more rounds at 6 st, then 3 rounds at 5st] dec 2 x 2; FO and sew up when completely stuffed.

Back legs (make 2):
6 sc in ring; 12; 12; 12; 12; (6 sc, dec 2, dec 2, dec 2) 9; 9; 9; (6 sc, inc 2, inc 2, inc 2) 12; (inc 2 every 2nd st) 18; 18; 18; (3 sc, dec 2, dec 2, 4 sc, dec 2, dec 2, dec 2, 1 sc) 13; (2 sc, dec 2, dec 2, 2 sc, dec 2, 1 sc, dec 2) 9; (2 sc, dec 2, 2 sc, dec 2) 7 – keep reducing every 2 st until the hole is too small to do any more. Stuff, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top of leg.

Front legs (make 2):
5 sc in ring; 10; 10; 10; 10; (6 sc, dec 2, dec 2) 8; 8 x 6 rounds; keep reducing every 2 st until the hole is too small to do any more. Stuff, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top of leg.

Spikes on back:
Small – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, ch1.
Large – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, yoh, hook into next ch, yoh and pull through st, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, into same st, yoh and pull through st, yoh and through all loops on hook, ch1.

You make the spikes continuously. I did 3 small, 10 large, 3 small, missing out the last ch1 and leaving a tail of yarn to sew to the body. Adjust the number of spikes you make to fit along your dragon’s back from behind the eyes to the tip of the tail.

Wings (in numbered rows):
1) ch 16.
2) Miss 1st ch. 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 2, turn.
3) 7 hdc, 5 sc, 3 ss, ch1, turn.
4) 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 3, turn.
5) Miss 1st ch, 2 ss (to make claws), 7 hdc, 5 sc, 3 ss, ch1, turn.
6) 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 2, turn.
7) 7 hdc, 5 sc, 3 ss, ch1, turn.
8) 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 3, turn.
9 – 12) Repeat rows 5 – 8.
13) Miss 1st ch, 2 ss, 15 sc.
Then sc along the base of the wing and along the other side, ch3, turn, miss 1st ch, 2 ss to make last claw. FO leaving long tail. Use this to secure the last claw to the rest of the wing, then take thread through wing to its base, ready to sew onto body.

Ears:
Leave a long tail of yarn when you make your first loop.
Ch 6, turn.
Skip 1st st, sc, dc,sc,ss. Leave the last ch and ss up the other side of the ear to the tip. FO
Sew onto head, going over the last chain several times to create the brow bone shape.

Completing your dragon:
Sew the spikes along the back from just behind the ears to the tip of the tail.
Sew the legs on in the obvious positions. I sewed them by pulling the tail of yarn through and out of the side of the leg, at the top. Then sew the yarn several times into a small area on the body so that they are slightly jointed and can move about quite easily.
Sew on the wings slightly to either side of the spikes with the front edge about level with the front legs.
Embroider eyes or sew on beads for eyes. I embroidered a roughly diamond shape in a contrasting colour below the brow bone, then used black for the pupils so they looked a bit like cat’s eyes. If you want to use safety eyes, you’ll need to fix them in quite early, before you crochet the neck, or you won’t be able to fit them.

I hope that all made sense, let me know if you have any questions. I will put more pictures on my Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/96575205@N00/

***This is a free pattern of my design, so please do not sell it. Otherwise, use as you like, but if you make this dragon to sell you must include a link to this pattern. Thank you!***



White Totoro
heavens_hellcat
*I have now written an updated version of this pattern with a few little improvements, and a variation to make a small blue Totoro. You can download a PDF of the pattern at Craftster (http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=405679.msg4778836#msg4778836) or Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/white-and-small-blue-totoro-amigurumi---updated)*

Pattern number 2! I wasn't happy with the ears on the one I made, so I've rewritten the pattern, but I haven't made another totoro to test out whether it all works together, hopefully it does. Oops, nearly forgot, meant to put in a link for how to do the magic ring: http://www.crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html

White Totoro Crochet Pattern

Materials:
White yarn, double knitting (US sport or worsted?)
Small amount of pink yarn for feet
Small amount of black embroidery thread for eyes
Stuffing
1 pair 9mm black safety eyes
Embroidery needle
3.5mm hook (US E hook)

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble (UK)
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase
inc 2 = increase by working 2 sc into one st
dec = decrease
dec 2 = decrease 2 st down to one
FO = finish off

Instructions:
Work in continuous rounds. Most rounds are written in the format:
Round number: [work a number of sc, increase or decrease by one st] x however many times (leaving however many st that round).

Ears (make 2):
1: Ch 2, 4sc into 1st ch, link to 1st sc with slip st.
2: [1sc, inc 2] x 2 (6st)
3: [2sc, inc 2] x 2 (8st)
4-5: Work 8sc for 2 rounds
6: [3sc, inc 2] x 2 (10st)
7-8: Work 10sc for 2 rounds
9: [4sc, inc 2] x 2 (12st)
10: Work 12sc for 1 round
FO one ear only
When second ear is complete join the two ears together at the base by doing round 11 and crocheting 24sc. If there is any gap between them use the tail of yarn from the first ear to neaten up. Continue with the body:
12: [3sc, inc 2] x 6 (30st)
13-15: Work 30sc for 3 rounds
16: [4sc, inc 2] x 6 (36st)
17-27: Work 36sc for 11 rounds
* Fix eyes in now, see below
28: [4sc, dec 2] x 6 (30st)
29: [3sc, dec 2] x 6 (24st)
30: [2sc, dec 2] x 6 (18st)
31: [1sc, dec 2] x 6 (12st)
32: [dec 2] x 6 (6st)
33: [dec 2] until hole is small enough to be sewn closed

Tail:
1: Ch 2, 6sc into 1st ch
2: [1sc, inc 2] x 3 (9st)
3: [2sc, inc 2] x 3 (12st)
4: Work 12sc for 1 round
5: [3sc, inc 2] x 3 (15st)
6: Work 15sc for 1 round, FO

Feet (pink yarn, make 2):
[Ch 4, miss 1, ss into next 3.] x 3
ss into 1st ch to make bird-type foot shape.

Eyes (white yarn, make 2):
1: Ch 2, 8sc into 1st ch, link to 1st sc with slip st, FO. Make sure there is a hole in the centre to put safety eyes through.

*Fit the eyes while there is still room to put your hand inside the body. Put the safety eyes through the centre of the white crocheted parts (you could use circles of white felt). Position on about round 14/15. Stuff fairly well, then complete the body until there is just a small hole left.
Sew edges of white parts of eyes to the body. Use black embroidery thread to outline the eyes.
Stuff body firmly and sew shut.
Stuff tail firmly and sew to body.
Sew feet to body.

***This is a free pattern of my design, so please do not sell it. Otherwise, use as you like, but if you make this Totoro to sell you must include a link to this pattern. Thank you!***



My first posted pattern!
heavens_hellcat
*I have rewritten and updated this pattern, and you can download it from Craftster (http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=405679.msg4778836#msg4778836) or Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/blue-totoro-amigurumi---updated). You can also download a pattern to make the larger grey Totoro, based on the same pattern, at the same post on Craftster or on Ravelry (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/grey-totoro-amigurumi )*

Well, this was what I set up this LJ for. I'll post the pattern for the white totoro next, then some of the very easy and quick things I have made.
Check out my Flickr pages for more photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/96575205@N00/

Blue Totoro Crochet Pattern

Materials:
Blue & white yarn, double knitting (US sport or worsted?)
Small amount of black yarn/embroidery thread for nose & claws
Stuffing
1 pair 9mm black safety eyes
Embroidery needle
3.5mm hook (US E hook)

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble (UK)
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase
inc 2 = increase by working 2 sc into one st
dec = decrease
dec 2 = decrease 2 st down to one
FO = finish off

Instructions:
Work in continuous rounds. Most rounds are written in the format:
Round number: [work a number of sc, increase or decrease by one st] x however many times (leaving however many st that round).
Leave long tails of yarn on each part in order to sew to body. Leave an extra long one on one arm to sew upside-down V marks on tummy.

Work the body until the hole is still big enough to fit your hand inside (rnd 48 or so) then fit the eyes. Put the safety eyes through the centre of the white crocheted parts (you could use circles of white felt). Position on about round 14. Stuff fairly well, then complete the body until there is just a small hole left. Sew on the nose. Stuff firmly and sew shut.
Stuff arms slightly then sew claws before attaching to body.
Stuff ears firmly and position with longer hdc parts to the outside. Sew to body.
Stuff tail firmly and position with hdc parts at the bottom. Sew to body.
Sew edges of white parts of eyes to the body.
Sew white tummy in place and embroider blue markings.

Body (blue yarn):
1: 6sc into magic ring
2: 2sc into each st (12st)
3: [1sc, inc 2] x 6 (18st)
4: [2sc, inc 2] x 6 (24st)
5: [3sc, inc 2] x 6 (30st)
6: [4sc, inc 2] x 6 (36st)
7: [5sc, inc 2] x 6 (42st)
8: [6sc, inc 2] x 6 (48st)
9: [7sc, inc 2] x 6 (54st)
10: [8sc, inc 2] x 6 (60st)
11-20: Work 60sc for 10 rounds
21: [5sc, inc 2] x 10 (70st)
22: [6sc, inc 2] x 10 (80st)
23-38: Work 80sc for 16 rounds
39: [18sc, dec 2] x 4 (76st)
40: [17sc, dec 2] x 4 (72st)
41: [16sc, dec 2] x 4 (68st)
42: [15sc, dec 2] x 4 (64st)
43: [14sc, dec 2] x 4 (60st)
44: [13sc, dec 2] x 4 (56st)
45: [12sc, dec 2] x 4 (52st)
46: [11sc, dec 2] x 4 (48st)
47: [6sc, dec 2] x 6 (42st)
48: [5sc, dec 2] x 6 (36st)
49: In back loop only [4sc, dec 2] x 6 (30st)
50: [1sc, dec 2] x 10 (20st)
51: [dec 2] x 10 (10st)
52: [dec 2] until hole is small enough to be sewn closed

Ears (blue yarn, make 2):
1: Ch 2, 4sc into 1st ch, link to 1st sc with slip st.
2: [1sc, inc 2] x 2 (6st)
3: [2sc, inc 2] x 2 (8st)
4: [3sc, inc 2] x 2 (10st)
5: [4sc, inc 2] x 2 (12st)
6: [5sc, inc 2] x 2 (14st)
7: [6sc, inc 2] x 2 (16st)
8: [7sc, inc 2] x 2 (18st)
9: [8sc, inc 2] x 2 (20st)
10: [9sc, inc 2] x 2 (22st)
11: [10sc, inc 2] x 2 (24st)
12-16: Work 24sc for 5 rounds
17: [4sc, dec 2] x 4 (20st)
18: [3sc, dec 2] x 4 (16st)
19: 8sc, 8hdc (16st)
20: 1sc, 1ss, FO

Tail (blue yarn):
1: Ch 2, 4sc into 1st ch
2: 2sc into each st (8st)
3: [1sc, inc 2] x 4 (12st)
4: [1sc, inc 2] x 6 (18st)
5: Work 18sc for 1 round
6: [2sc, inc 2] x 6 (24st)
7: Work 24sc for 1 round
8: [3sc, inc 2] x 6 (30st)
9-15: Work 30sc for 7 rounds
16-17: 15hdc, 15sc (30st)
18: 15hdc, 1sc, 1ss, FO (only do 17st of the round)

Arms (blue yarn, make 2):
1: Ch 2, 6sc into 1st ch
2: 2sc into each st (12st)
3: [2sc, inc 2] x 4 (16st)
4: Work 16sc for 1 round
5: [3sc, inc 2] x 4 (20st)
6-8: Work 20sc for 3 rounds
9: [4sc, inc 2] x 4 (24st)
10-12: Work 24sc for 3 rounds
13: [4sc, dec 2] x 4 (20st)
14-16: Work 20sc for 3 rounds
17: [3sc, dec 2] x 4 (16st)
18: Work 16sc for 1 round
19: [2sc, dec2] x 4 (12st) FO

Tummy (white yarn):
1: 6sc into magic ring
2: 2sc into each st (12st)
3: 2sc into each st (24st)
4: Work 24sc for 1 round
5: [2sc, inc 2] x 8 (32st)
6: [3sc, inc 2] x 8 (40st)
7: [7sc, inc 2] x 5 (45st)
8: [8sc, inc 2] x 5 (50st)
9: [9sc, inc 2] x 5 (55st)
10: [10sc, inc 2] x 5 (60st)
11: [5sc, inc2] x 10 (70st)
12: [6sc, inc2] x 10 (80st)
13-14: Work 80sc for 2 rounds, FO.

Eyes (white yarn, make 2):
1: Ch 2, 8sc into 1st ch, link to 1st sc with slip st, FO. Make sure there is a hole in the centre to put safety eyes through.

***This is a free pattern of my design, so please do not sell it. Otherwise, use as you like, but if you make this Totoro to sell you must include a link to this pattern. Thank you!***




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