I'm going to assume that anyone who tries to make this has a reasonable knowledge of crochet & making amigurumi, and that you know how to increase and decrease. So I am just going to write the number of stitches in each round and then explain any fiddly bits in more detail. Semi-colons (;) separate the rounds, assume you start with chain 2 & crochet into the first stitch, or with a magic ring.

Use a 3.5mm (E) hook.
Use any yarn you like, you may need to increase the hook size if you use a very chunky yarn. Crochet tightly so that the stuffing won’t show.
Mark the start of each row.
Stuff the body as you go along, not too tightly so that the dragon can bend its neck and tail.

Abbreviations:
inc 2 = do 2 sc in one stitch.
dec 2 = reduce 2 stitches down to one sc.
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
FO = finish off
st = stitch(es)
ch = chain
yoh = yarn over hook
ss = slip stitch (US), single crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)

Start at the dragon’s nose:

Nostrils:
8 sc in ring, FO leaving a bit of a tail.
8 sc in ring, then sc into any stitch on the first ring and go all the way around both of them, ending up with 16 st. Use the tail to sew up any gap between the 2 parts.

Continue:
16; (do the following reductions at the middle top and middle bottom of the nose) 14; 14; 12; 10; (do the next 4 increases at the top to create the head) 14; 14; 14; (do the following decreases at the top) 12; 10; 8; 8; 8; (increase by one stitch anywhere) 9; 10; 10; 10; 11; 12; (do the next increase at the bottom to create the body) 18; 18; (increase every 3rd stitch) 24; 24; 24; (do the following increases at sides) 26; 26; 26; 28; 28; (do the following reductions at the sides, but a bit randomly, or there will be a distinct line) 26; 24; 22; 20; 18; 16; 14; 14; 12 x 11 rounds; 11; 11; 11; 10; 10; 10; 9; 9; 9; 8; 8; 8; 8; 7 x 10 rounds; 6; [If the tail doesn’t look pointy enough, continue for 3 more rounds at 6 st, then 3 rounds at 5st] dec 2 x 2; FO and sew up when completely stuffed.

Back legs (make 2):
6 sc in ring; 12; 12; 12; 12; (6 sc, dec 2, dec 2, dec 2) 9; 9; 9; (6 sc, inc 2, inc 2, inc 2) 12; (inc 2 every 2nd st) 18; 18; 18; (3 sc, dec 2, dec 2, 4 sc, dec 2, dec 2, dec 2, 1 sc) 13; (2 sc, dec 2, dec 2, 2 sc, dec 2, 1 sc, dec 2) 9; (2 sc, dec 2, 2 sc, dec 2) 7 – keep reducing every 2 st until the hole is too small to do any more. Stuff, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top of leg.

Front legs (make 2):
5 sc in ring; 10; 10; 10; 10; (6 sc, dec 2, dec 2) 8; 8 x 6 rounds; keep reducing every 2 st until the hole is too small to do any more. Stuff, then use cream/beige yarn to sew claws. Sew up top of leg.

Spikes on back:
Small – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, hdc into 3rd ch from hook, ch1.
Large – ch 3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, yoh, hook into next ch, yoh and pull through st, yoh, pull through 2 loops, yoh, into same st, yoh and pull through st, yoh and through all loops on hook, ch1.

You make the spikes continuously. I did 3 small, 10 large, 3 small, missing out the last ch1 and leaving a tail of yarn to sew to the body. Adjust the number of spikes you make to fit along your dragon’s back from behind the eyes to the tip of the tail.

Wings (in numbered rows):
1) ch 16.
2) Miss 1st ch. 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 2, turn.
3) 7 hdc, 5 sc, 3 ss, ch1, turn.
4) 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 3, turn.
5) Miss 1st ch, 2 ss (to make claws), 7 hdc, 5 sc, 3 ss, ch1, turn.
6) 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 2, turn.
7) 7 hdc, 5 sc, 3 ss, ch1, turn.
8) 3 ss, 5 sc, 7 hdc, ch 3, turn.
9 – 12) Repeat rows 5 – 8.
13) Miss 1st ch, 2 ss, 15 sc.
Then sc along the base of the wing and along the other side, ch3, turn, miss 1st ch, 2 ss to make last claw. FO leaving long tail. Use this to secure the last claw to the rest of the wing, then take thread through wing to its base, ready to sew onto body.

Ears:
Leave a long tail of yarn when you make your first loop.
Ch 6, turn.
Skip 1st st, sc, dc,sc,ss. Leave the last ch and ss up the other side of the ear to the tip. FO
Sew onto head, going over the last chain several times to create the brow bone shape.

Completing your dragon:
Sew the spikes along the back from just behind the ears to the tip of the tail.
Sew the legs on in the obvious positions. I sewed them by pulling the tail of yarn through and out of the side of the leg, at the top. Then sew the yarn several times into a small area on the body so that they are slightly jointed and can move about quite easily.
Sew on the wings slightly to either side of the spikes with the front edge about level with the front legs.
Embroider eyes or sew on beads for eyes. I embroidered a roughly diamond shape in a contrasting colour below the brow bone, then used black for the pupils so they looked a bit like cat’s eyes. If you want to use safety eyes, you’ll need to fix them in quite early, before you crochet the neck, or you won’t be able to fit them.

I hope that all made sense, let me know if you have any questions. I will put more pictures on my Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/96575205@N00/

This is a free pattern. Make the dragon for yourself or for gifts, but please do not use it to make money. Thank you!

Pattern number 2! I wasn't happy with the ears on the one I made, so I've rewritten the pattern, but I haven't made another totoro to test out whether it all works together, hopefully it does. Oops, nearly forgot, meant to put in a link for how to do the magic ring: http://www.crochetme.com/Dec_Jan_0405/reads_round.html

White Totoro Crochet Pattern

Materials:
White yarn, double knitting (US sport or worsted?)
Small amount of pink yarn for feet
Small amount of black embroidery thread for eyes
Stuffing
1 pair 9mm black safety eyes
Embroidery needle
3.5mm hook (US E hook)

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble (UK)
ss = slip stitch
inc = increase
inc 2 = increase by working 2 sc into one st
dec = decrease
dec 2 = decrease 2 st down to one
FO = finish off

Instructions:
Work in continuous rounds. Most rounds are written in the format:
Round number: [work a number of sc, increase or decrease by one st] x however many times (leaving however many st that round).

Ears (make 2):
1: Ch 2, 4sc into 1st ch, link to 1st sc with slip st.
2: [1sc, inc 2] x 2 (6st)
3: [2sc, inc 2] x 2 (8st)
4-5: Work 8sc for 2 rounds
6: [3sc, inc 2] x 2 (10st)
7-8: Work 10sc for 2 rounds
9: [4sc, inc 2] x 2 (12st)
10: Work 12sc for 1 round
FO one ear only
When second ear is complete join the two ears together at the base by doing round 11 and crocheting 24sc. If there is any gap between them use the tail of yarn from the first ear to neaten up. Continue with the body:
12: [3sc, inc 2] x 6 (30st)
13-15: Work 30sc for 3 rounds
16: [4sc, inc 2] x 6 (36st)
17-27: Work 36sc for 11 rounds
* Fix eyes in now, see below
28: [4sc, dec 2] x 6 (30st)
29: [3sc, dec 2] x 6 (24st)
30: [2sc, dec 2] x 6 (18st)
31: [1sc, dec 2] x 6 (12st)
32: [dec 2] x 6 (6st)
33: [dec 2] until hole is small enough to be sewn closed

Tail:
1: Ch 2, 6sc into 1st ch
2: [1sc, inc 2] x 3 (9st)
3: [2sc, inc 2] x 3 (12st)
4: Work 12sc for 1 round
5: [3sc, inc 2] x 3 (15st)
6: Work 15sc for 1 round, FO

Feet (pink yarn, make 2):
[Ch 4, miss 1, ss into next 3.] x 3
ss into 1st ch to make bird-type foot shape.

Eyes (white yarn, make 2):
1: Ch 2, 8sc into 1st ch, link to 1st sc with slip st, FO. Make sure there is a hole in the centre to put safety eyes through.

*Fit the eyes while there is still room to put your hand inside the body. Put the safety eyes through the centre of the white crocheted parts (you could use circles of white felt). Position on about round 14/15. Stuff fairly well, then complete the body until there is just a small hole left.
Sew edges of white parts of eyes to the body. Use black embroidery thread to outline the eyes.
Stuff body firmly and sew shut.
Stuff tail firmly and sew to body.
Sew feet to body.